South African Mountain Informantion
South Africa offers inspiring mountain adventure opportunities ranging from day hikes and rock climbs on Table Mountain to multi-day expeditions between the jagged peaks of our high and remote mountain ranges or along our rugged coastline.
In our efforts to promote mountaineering and mountain safety in South Africa the MDT will make information available on this site which may be useful to people venturing into our mountains. Please have a look at the specific info pages below:.
01
Drakensberg Mountain Rescues
By Gavin Raubenheimer, MDT MIA
These notes are specifically for the KZ-N Drakensberg, including the Sentinel and Freestate border area.
If in an Ezemvelo/KZN Wildlife area, then the reporting party should try at first to contact the nearest ranger's office, either by cell phone or by going there in person. As a second choice one can phone 0800-00-5133 and report that there is a “mountain rescue” required. The operator will then contact a Mountain Club Rescue Organiser and the rescue will get underway.
Remember that in rescues in remote areas of the mountains, it will take some time until help can get to you. In the case of a low key operation near to civilisation this may be less than an hour. In the case when a large powerfulhelicopter is needed, at least two or more hours or longer will go past before it arrives. This can be even longer if the weather is bad and a rescue team has to drive to the mountains and then hike to the scene.
When reporting an emergency or death:
Do's...
• Stay in cell phone range or near to the landline phone that was used to make the call
• Give your name and phone number
• Give the exact location
• Give the patient's name, age and gender
• Give the symptoms or problem
• Give the present weather conditions
Don'ts...
• Don't panic
• Don't make hasty decisions. Most emergencies are sorted out better after a little thought and planning.
• Administer First Aid to the best of your ability and training.
• Don't call private insurance or ambulance companies that are neither equipped nor authorised to carry out rescues in the Drakensberg
• In the case of a known fatality, do not move a corpse or disturb the area until authorized to do so by the police.
Remember that in rescues in remote areas of the mountains, it will take some time until help can get to you. In the case of a low key operation near to civilisation this may be less than an hour. In the case when a large powerfulhelicopter is needed, at least two or more hours or longer will go past before it arrives. This can be even longer if the weather is bad and a rescue team has to drive to the mountains and then hike to the scene.
When reporting an emergency or death:
Do's...
• Stay in cell phone range or near to the landline phone that was used to make the call
• Give your name and phone number
• Give the exact location
• Give the patient's name, age and gender
• Give the symptoms or problem
• Give the present weather conditions
Don'ts...
• Don't panic
• Don't make hasty decisions. Most emergencies are sorted out better after a little thought and planning.
• Administer First Aid to the best of your ability and training.
• Don't call private insurance or ambulance companies that are neither equipped nor authorised to carry out rescues in the Drakensberg
• In the case of a known fatality, do not move a corpse or disturb the area until authorized to do so by the police.
02
Rock Climbing Grades
Reproduced from Western Cape Rock by Tony Lourens
03
Winter Climbing Grades
By Gavin Raubenheimer, MDT MIA
In South Africa and Lesotho snow and ice climbs are grading on the international system with a few adaptations for local conditions. W I prefixes are used on all pitches where Water Ice is likely to occur.
In the SA system the following aspects of a route are covered:
1) The commitment grade given in Roman numerals gives an indication of the difficulty of the approach and descent as well as how sustained the climbing will be.
2) The technical grade is simply how hard any single section of climbing is likely to be under average conditions. Grades range from 1-6. Technical rock grades are included if mixed ground is likely to be encountered. Note, that in keeping with international trends the rock grade is given in "how it feels" to climb a section of rock in heavy boots, crampons and so on. It is not given as how difficult it is if climbed with summer rock shoes and warm hands.
Commitment Grade
Roman Numerals I to III.
"I" – A route with an easy walk-in of less than 3 hours and easy navigation to and from the route. Descent by walking off and with escape routes from the pitches. Characteristically these routes would seldom be more than 2 pitches in length.
"II" – Routes which could have walk-ins of several hours in remote areas. Descent could be by abseil or down unmarked routes. A good degree of mountain experience will be needed for the approach climb and descent.
"III" – A route which will demands small expedition organisation and will usually require a few days round trip. Camping or bivvying at high altitude in a remote wilderness area is required. Climbing will usually involve multi-pitch, sustained climbing. Descent or retreat will be most likely be by abseil from rock or ice "V" thread belays. (Abalakov Sandwich)
Technical Grade
Grade 1 - Easy walkable slopes with perhaps short steeper sections.
Grade 2 - Easy angled front pointing, short sections of 80 degrees with good protection.
Grade 3 - Sustained climbing up to 80 degrees between rests. Could have short sections of steeper ground. Good resting places and requires ability to place protection while on front points.
Grade 4 - Sustained full pitch of off-vertical ice or shorter sections of dead vertical ground.
Grade 5 - Long sustained pitch of near-vertical ice with few or no resting spots. Areas of chandeliers, bulges or featureless ice could be encountered.
Grade 6 - A pitch of dead vertical ice or near vertical with sections of thin highly technical ice or other obstacles such as overhangs or bulges. Protection will be scarce and placed whilst in very precarious positions. To date, no climbs of this grade have been opened in the Berg.
In the SA system the following aspects of a route are covered:
1) The commitment grade given in Roman numerals gives an indication of the difficulty of the approach and descent as well as how sustained the climbing will be.
2) The technical grade is simply how hard any single section of climbing is likely to be under average conditions. Grades range from 1-6. Technical rock grades are included if mixed ground is likely to be encountered. Note, that in keeping with international trends the rock grade is given in "how it feels" to climb a section of rock in heavy boots, crampons and so on. It is not given as how difficult it is if climbed with summer rock shoes and warm hands.
Commitment Grade
Roman Numerals I to III.
"I" – A route with an easy walk-in of less than 3 hours and easy navigation to and from the route. Descent by walking off and with escape routes from the pitches. Characteristically these routes would seldom be more than 2 pitches in length.
"II" – Routes which could have walk-ins of several hours in remote areas. Descent could be by abseil or down unmarked routes. A good degree of mountain experience will be needed for the approach climb and descent.
"III" – A route which will demands small expedition organisation and will usually require a few days round trip. Camping or bivvying at high altitude in a remote wilderness area is required. Climbing will usually involve multi-pitch, sustained climbing. Descent or retreat will be most likely be by abseil from rock or ice "V" thread belays. (Abalakov Sandwich)
Technical Grade
Grade 1 - Easy walkable slopes with perhaps short steeper sections.
Grade 2 - Easy angled front pointing, short sections of 80 degrees with good protection.
Grade 3 - Sustained climbing up to 80 degrees between rests. Could have short sections of steeper ground. Good resting places and requires ability to place protection while on front points.
Grade 4 - Sustained full pitch of off-vertical ice or shorter sections of dead vertical ground.
Grade 5 - Long sustained pitch of near-vertical ice with few or no resting spots. Areas of chandeliers, bulges or featureless ice could be encountered.
Grade 6 - A pitch of dead vertical ice or near vertical with sections of thin highly technical ice or other obstacles such as overhangs or bulges. Protection will be scarce and placed whilst in very precarious positions. To date, no climbs of this grade have been opened in the Berg.
04
SAMT Syllabus Tree
Courses are designed to flow in a complimentary system toward each level. Some systems (R.I.A / K.I.A) require additional modules as their scope of operation overlaps with those programs. For example a Rock or Kloofing Instructor requires Walking Group Leader as a supplement. Likewise an M.I.A can have Kloofing exclusion.
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Award Glossary:
M.I.A: Mountain Instructor Award
I.M.L: International Mountain Leader
M.L.I: Mountain Leader Instructor
M.L.A: Mountain Leader Award
W.G.L: Walking Group Leader
S.P.S: Single Pitch Supervisor
A.S.A: Abseil Supervisor Award
W.S.A: Wall Supervisor Award
K.I.A: Kloofing Instructor Award
K.L.A: Kloofing Leader Award
R.I.A: Rock Instructor Award
M.P.S: Multi-Pitch Supervisor
M.I.A: Mountain Instructor Award
I.M.L: International Mountain Leader
M.L.I: Mountain Leader Instructor
M.L.A: Mountain Leader Award
W.G.L: Walking Group Leader
S.P.S: Single Pitch Supervisor
A.S.A: Abseil Supervisor Award
W.S.A: Wall Supervisor Award
K.I.A: Kloofing Instructor Award
K.L.A: Kloofing Leader Award
R.I.A: Rock Instructor Award
M.P.S: Multi-Pitch Supervisor
